Gozo Finale

The archipelago of Malta has one last surprise for us…the north island of Gozo. Gozo is the second-largest island in the Maltese archipelago, located in the Mediterranean Sea about 5 kilometers northwest of the main island of Malta. It’s known for its rural charm, dramatic landscapes, and rich history. The island is characterized by rolling hills, terraced fields, limestone cliffs, and beautiful bays. It’s more rural and less developed by nature than Malta, giving it a peaceful, countryside atmosphere. Gozo is home to the Ġgantija Temples, which are among the world’s oldest free-standing structures, once again predating Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. The island also has a medieval citadel in Victoria (the capital) and numerous churches. Popular spots include the Azure Window (which collapsed in 2017 but the area remains scenic), Ramla Bay with its distinctive red sand, and various diving sites with crystal-clear waters. The island maintains traditional Maltese culture, with local crafts, festivals, and a slower pace of life compared to Malta.

Like the rest of Malta, Gozo has a rich and layered history spanning over 7,000 years, from prehistoric settlements to modern times. Gozo was first inhabited in 5,000 BC when farmers from Sicily crossed the sea to the island likely settling in caves around the Saint Lawrence part of the island. This marked the beginning of human civilization on Gozo. The most significant prehistoric achievement was the construction of the Ġgantija temples during the Neolithic era (c. 3600–2500 BC). From around 800 to 215 BC Malta and Gozo were ruled by the Phoenicians, who established important trading posts and left archaeological evidence of their presence. When the Phoenicians Empire collapsed, the Romans arrived and stayed from 218 BC to 395 AD, until the split of the Roman Empire. The Romans developed the islands’ infrastructure and established administrative systems. The islands’ long-standing Christian roots are believed to have begun in 60 AD when St Paul became shipwrecked on Malta. He was taken in by the locals where, according to biblical legend, he introduced them to Christianity. Around AD 535, Gozo passed under the dominion of the Eastern Roman Empire along with Malta. The island was then occupied by the Byzantines who further helped establish the Christian faith here. Although less is known about this period, the Byzantines maintained control for over three centuries. In 870, the Alabaster Arabs settled in the Maltese archipelago, including Gozo. They had a very important influence on the islands, introducing the cotton plant and water mill, which went on to be important for the economy for centuries. They also had a large part in developing the Maltese language.

Around the year 1090 and then for the next 500 years, the island was run by the Normans. They established an aristocracy and influenced the area with their architectural style called Siculo-Norman. In 1530 when the Knights of Hospitaller (The Knights of Malta) arrived. They were formed for fighting in the crusades and had been roaming the middle east and Europe since the early Crusades, fighting battles and wrecking havoc in the Islamic world. In 1530, they were given fixed quarters by King Charles I of Spain (as King of Sicily), in Malta and Gozo, after loosing their base in Rhodes. The Knights of St John held the island for over 200 years. The cultural and architectural legacy of these invaders is what makes the island such a joy to discover. During this period, the Knights built fortifications, including the Citadel in Victoria and various coastal towers for defense. In 1798, Napoleonic France ousted the Order from Malta, only to be forced out in turn by a British-backed rebellion in 1800. Following the French, the British administered Malta and Gozo for over 160 years, during which time the islands became an important naval base in the Mediterranean. Along with the rest of Malta, Gozo became independent in 1964 and joined the EU in 2004. Due to their strategically ideal location, Malta, Gozo, and Comino have always been at the center of history. With its numerous bays, ideal as natural harbors, Malta has always attracted powerful peoples to its shores. This strategic position in the Mediterranean made Gozo a coveted prize for successive civilizations, each leaving their mark on the island’s culture, architecture, and traditions. The history of Gozo is remarkable for its continuity – from the mysterious temple builders of the Neolithic period to the modern European nation it is today, the island has been continuously inhabited and has served as a cultural crossroads of the Mediterranean for millennia. Today, the well-to-do of Malta tend to maintain summer villas on Gozo.

Going to Gozo involves taking a “Fast Ferry” from a dock in Valletta. It’s a 45 minute ride on a pontoon hydrofoil of sorts. The sea is smooth today so it’s a very peaceful start to the day. The northwestern part of the Malta island in on our port side and from what I can see of it, it looks pretty much the same all across with low residential buildings along the sea and open scrub beyond. Occasionally there is a small city on top of a cliff, set back from the water. From the sea, Malta could be mistaken for any other Greek, Spanish or Italian island. As we pass from the big island, heading to Gozo, we also pass by the small island of Comino (Kemmuna).

Comino is a small island measuring 3.5 square kilometres (1.4 sq mi) in area. The Blue Lagoon is Comino’s star attraction – a mesmerizing area of azure waters nestled between Comino and the islet of Cominotto. The lagoon’s shallow depths and crystal-clear clarity create a captivating underwater world, making it a haven for snorkelers and water enthusiasts. Formerly called Ephaestia (Ἡφαιστεία in Ancient Greek), Comino is known to have been inhabited by farmers during Roman times, but for long periods in its history it has been sparsely populated, privately owned, or abandoned entirely. The island has served various purposes throughout history – from a hideout for pirates and marauders in the Middle Ages to a quarantine station during British rule. Santa Maria Tower stands as the island’s most visible landmark. Finally, in 1618 the Knights of Malta under Grandmaster Wignacourt erected St Mary’s Tower (Maltese: it-Torri ta’ Santa Marija), located roughly in the center of the southern coast of the island. This watchtower was part of Malta’s coastal defense system and gained Hollywood fame appearing in “The Count of Monte Cristo” (2002). Today the entire island is classified as a wildlife sanctuary and serves as Malta’s main bird sanctuary, with efforts focused on preserving its unique Mediterranean ecosystem and pristine natural beauty. The island offers a peaceful escape with no paved roads, minimal development, and stunning coastal scenery that attracts thousands of visitors annually seeking crystal-clear waters and tranquil Mediterranean charm.

After the ferry, our first stop was Ggantija Temple, which was a lot like Hagar Qim, only slightly bigger and older. Also, the rocks used were mostly indigenous to Gozo, so slightly more rustic. Then it was off to see Calypso cave, which is supposedly where Homeric legend Ulysses became shipwrecked and entranced by Calypso. Calypso was a nymph who lived on the mythical island of Ogygia. In Homer’s Odyssey, she held Odysseus captive for seven years, offering him immortality if he would stay with her as her husband. She’s often depicted as a beautiful sea nymph with magical powers. Ogygia is a mythical island from Homer’s Odyssey, so it doesn’t have a real geographical location. In the epic poem, it’s described as Calypso’s remote island home where Odysseus was stranded for seven years. Over the centuries, scholars and enthusiasts have proposed various real-world locations that might have inspired Ogygia, including Gozo. However, this is all speculative. Homer likely intended Ogygia to be a fantastical, otherworldly place rather than a specific real location. The island serves a literary purpose in the story – representing Odysseus’s prolonged exile and the temptation to abandon his journey home. So while Ogygia has captured imaginations for millennia, it remains firmly in the realm of mythology rather than geography.…except to the Gozo Tourism Bureau.

From everywhere on the island you can see the Citadels or ramparts high over what was Rabat, but got renamed Victoria after Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in 1887. We passed through on our was to the Blue Hole, which is another great diving spot where the limestone cliffs have carved out grottos for the sea to do its azure magic. After some walking and shopping in Victoria, we went to a seaside restaurant for a pleasant lunch and a nice sea breeze. After a handicraft market stop for Kim, we head back to the fast ferry to Valletta. This was a great Gozo Finale to our trip to Malta.