This trip that we are on with the people from Steam Dreams, that run special steam locomotives throughout the United Kingdom for both day trips and multi day excursions, has been a very interesting trip for us. To begin with they have gathered, in addition to a series of well recognized steam locomotives, an older traditional set of train cars that they have retrofitted with quaint plush seating arrangements configured as dining cars. In the four days of this excursion, starting Thursday and ending Sunday, we will have spent approximately 1/2 of our waking hours on the train. That would be one 10 hour train ride day from London to Edinburgh one train ride day of 10 hours from Edinburgh back to London (what I’m awaiting as I write) and a 5 hour day of traveling on the train over the Firth of Forth and around through the most historic parts of Scotland. We traveled past numerous castles, the William Wallace memorial (FREEDOM, Mate…as the Scots like to say), and past Sterling Castle, the site of the most famous battle/victory Scotland had in its warfare for independence from England, hundreds of years ago. Given that amount of time on the train, I think it’s fair to say that we have a good perspective about the traditional train travel in the UK. I, for one, would declare it to be great fun and very comfortable. I think that’s saying a lot that someone of my size and demeanor would find spending 25 hours on a train over the course of four days to be such. Part of that outcome is the result of the Steam Dreams team and their serious attention to high quality service, and the rest of it is probably attributable to a sound travel concept and good design and execution in the fitting out of the rail cars. It might also be that I do like sitting and staring out the window or regaling fellow passengers with tales of Trump and Ghislaine. Nothing is ever perfect, but I would give high marks to Steam Dreams on a very pleasant trip, at least for people of our age.
Speaking of age, one of the extra-pleasant features of this trip, besides our companions or the other passengers around us (most of whom were of our age), was one couple who was very young and equally interesting, that were from Glasgow. We traveled with them around the Firth yesterday. This was their second trip on Stream Dreams, so it’s fair to suggest that they too enjoy this whole program.
This is a rare and beautiful trip through Fife and along the Firth of Forth featuring a journey over one of the great railway engineering masterpieces of the world, The Forth Bridge.
This tour departs Edinburgh Waverley and took us over the towering structure of the Forth Bridge, with striking views across to the road bridge and out to sea. We then headed in to Fife and made our way along the coast towards Kirkcaldy, passing the Castle and beach at Aberdour and the beaches at Burntisland and Kinghorn, before turning back inland via Dunfermline. When we stopped in Dufrrmline it turned out the train was too long for the platform, so even Steam Dreams is not perfect.
All along the route, just as had been the case up from London, local people lined the tracks taking video and photos of the passing antique train. Trainspotting still is the quintessential Britishism that the Edinburgh-based movie of the same name suggested (without the drugs and violence). Train watching seems quite the weekend sport over here.
The train then headed along the Forth Estuary onto a rarely used “goods only” line, which has stunning views. This part of the route took us along more than 5 miles of coastline, while passing the historic village of Culross and the edge of Torry Bay Local Nature Reserve. We then passed through Alloa (where the series Outlander is filmed) and along the reopened route to Stirling, looping round the Western end of the estuary. Having crossed the Forth River at Stirling, we headed south through Falkirk, before arriving back into Edinburgh Waverley Station in Edinburgh.
Today, our homeward journey carries us through the Pentland Hills and across the Lowlands to the Lowther Hills, following the route once known as the Caledonian Main Line. Our steam locomotive will be put through her paces as we scale several summits en route to the English border. At Carlisle, we bid farewell to our steam locomotive (60532 Blue Peter) and continue south, hauled by a vintage diesel or electric engine, to London Kings Cross. As we traverse the Lune Gorge and Eden Valley, passing the rolling peaks and picturesque villages of Cumbria, we will take a moment to reflect on our time in Scotland’s majestic capital. It’s a very “vertical” city with more levels above and below you at any time than you likely realize. I’m sure my 10,000 steps on Friday and 5,000 steps yesterday needed an elevation rating.
It’s hard to explain why train travel appeals to me so much. Maybe it’s the “Greyhound bus” aspect of modern plane travel, or maybe just the slower pace, But offer me a pleasant train ride and I will always bite. In fact, in February, we will head to SLC to ride the California Zephyr across the Nevada desert and over the High Sierras to Sacramento. I will be thinking of that next train ride when we arrive at London King’s Cross just after the evening rush hour tonight.