The world is always moving ahead as it seems. No matter what country you go to you will invariably find that there was a city that was very important, perhaps it was a Capital or perhaps it was just a big prosperous city. And then something changed. something is always changing in this world. Everything wants that city that used to be a very important place, which had built up accordingly, to suddenly, and within the blink of an historical eye, become an afterthought. I’m not sure what it says about us as a society. I suppose you could argue that it says that we understand and embrace change as part of the normal progression of life. But I also think it might mean that we are never satisfied and always changing things up to improve our circumstances and try to put ourselves at the center of attention or perhaps the seat of power by changing everything. It’s harder to have our qualities and actions compared to the past if there is no benchmark for comparison.
The capital city of Malta is the one we are staying in and is called Valletta. But from the intense history lesson of Malta that we have been getting over the past few days, we also know that Valletta was not always the most important city on the island. On our first day here we learned that the Knights of St. John located themselves in the three cities across the harbor from what is now Valletta. They were mostly hunkered down in Birgu. In fact, Valletta didn’t really even exist as a city, and was just a rock outcropping that the Ottoman marauders used as their base of operation. After the siege and the successful protection of Malta, the Knights of St. John chose to relocate themselves from Birgu to a new city that they built on the site of what is now Valletta.
But now we learn that in keeping with the positioning of the largest Neolithic temples further south on the island, the old world capital of Malta was far inland from the harbor and built on a high spot on the island that had commanding views of most of the entirety of the island. That ancient city was called Mdina, which means fort in Arabic. Mdina is often called the “Silent City” due to its peaceful, car-free streets. This medieval walled city sits on a hilltop in the center of Malta and is one of the island’s most stunning historical attractions. The city dates back over 4,000 years, originally founded by the Phoenicians and later fortified by the Arabs who gave it the name “Medina.” The current baroque and medieval architecture largely stems from the period after the 1693 earthquake, when much of the city was rebuilt. Key highlights of Mdina include St. Paul’s Cathedral, the baroque cathedral that dominates the city center and houses beautiful marble tombstones and artwork. According to tradition, it’s built on the site where Roman governor Publius met St. Paul after his shipwreck in Malta in 60 AD. The imposing fortifications of the city offer spectacular views over the Maltese countryside. The main gate is particularly photogenic and has appeared in numerous films and TV shows, including Game of Thrones. Palazzo Falson is a beautifully preserved medieval palace that now serves as a museum showcasing centuries of Maltese noble life. Wandering through the limestone streets feels like stepping back in time, with beautiful doorways, balconies, and hidden courtyards around every corner.
Mdina has one of the most fascinating and layered histories in the Mediterranean, spanning over 4,000 years of continuous habitation. The site was first settled during the Bronze Age, but the Phoenicians were the first to establish a proper fortified settlement around 700 BC. They recognized the strategic importance of this elevated position in central Malta, which provided excellent views of the surrounding countryside and harbors. When the Romans conquered Malta in 218 BC, they called the city “Melite” and made it the island’s capital. This period saw significant development, with the construction of villas, baths, and other Roman infrastructure. The most famous event during Roman rule was St. Paul’s shipwreck in 60 AD. According to Christian tradition, St. Paul was brought to the Roman governor Publius in Melite, where he converted him to Christianity and performed miraculous healings on his father. The Arabs conquered Malta in 870 AD and transformed the city, giving it the name “Mdina” (from the Arabic “medina,” meaning city or town…and ergo, fort). They significantly strengthened the fortifications and reduced the city’s size by building new walls that excluded the southern section (which later became Rabat…the Arabic word for suburb). The Arabs also introduced new agricultural techniques and architectural styles that influenced Maltese culture for centuries. The Normans conquered Malta in 1091, and Mdina remained the island’s capital throughout the medieval period. During this time, it became the center of Malta’s nobility, with powerful families building palaces within the walls. The city maintained its importance as the seat of the Università (the governing council of Malta’s nobility). When the Knights of St. John arrived in 1530, they initially made Mdina their base before moving to Birgu and later Valletta. Though no longer the primary capital, Mdina remained the feudal capital and the seat of the nobility. The Knights respected the city’s autonomy and allowed the Maltese nobles to maintain their traditional privileges.
Then came the Great Earthquake of 1693, a devastating earthquake that struck Malta and severely damaging Mdina. The reconstruction that followed transformed the city’s appearance, giving it much of the baroque architecture we see today. The cathedral was completely rebuilt, and many palaces were restored in the fashionable baroque style. During the brief French occupation (1798-1800), Napoleon abolished the nobility’s privileges, which diminished Mdina’s political importance. Under British rule (1800-1964), the city became primarily a residential area for Malta’s aristocratic families, earning its reputation as the “Silent City.” Today, Mdina is a living museum and one of Malta’s premier tourist attractions. About 300 people still live within its walls, maintaining the city’s residential character while preserving its extraordinary historical heritage. The city has been carefully restored and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site as part of Malta’s capital city designation. Throughout its long history, Mdina has served as a testament to Malta’s strategic position in the Mediterranean and its role as a crossroads of civilizations, with each period leaving its distinctive mark on the city’s architecture, culture, and character. But nonetheless, it is also on old city rather than a new and vibrant one.
We toured the old city from. One end to the other, which is not so hard given its small size. I cannot honestly say that Mdina’s place as an old city is good or bad thing for the city. One could spin that story in many directions. What I do know is that it is beautiful and worthy of an extended visit. In fact, Kim wants to go back on our free day tomorrow, mostly to shop the preferred handicraft stores, but also to get inspired by the wonder of the place as the vortex of Malta’s long heritage.