The Anza-Borrego Desert “superbloom” is a spectacular wildflower phenomenon that occurs in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park in Southern California, typically between late February and April. A superbloom happens when an unusually large number of wildflowers bloom simultaneously across the desert landscape, transforming the normally brown and sparse terrain into vibrant carpets of color. This requires a specific combination of conditions. First and foremost, there must be adequate winter rainfall, generally at least 3-5 inches between October and March (so far this winter we have had 3.53 inches in the Anza-Borrego). Rain also needs to come at the right intervals to germinate seeds, and this year, so far, it has been well-spaced out. Then, we need warm spring temperatures to trigger the blooming (it is supposed to be 83 today in Borrego Springs). And finally, there needs to be a generally low wind condition since strong winds can damage emerging flowers (I don’t believe we have had strong Santa Ana winds yet this season).
When these conditions align, dormant seeds that have been lying in the desert soil (sometimes for years), suddenly germinate and bloom en masse. The display can include hundreds of species: desert sunflowers, sand verbena, desert lilies, brittlebush, ocotillo, and many others, creating patches of yellow, purple, pink, and white across the desert floor. The most famous recent superbloom in Anza-Borrego occurred in 2017, when exceptional winter rains produced an extraordinary display that drew visitors from around the world. Smaller blooms happen more frequently, but true superblooms are relatively rare—maybe once or twice a decade. This year is shaping up so far to be a strong candidate for another superbloom and today I am heading out as a sort of advance party to see what’s what.
The park is about 2 hours east of our hilltop and is California’s largest state park, making it a prime location for desert wildflower viewing when conditions are right. We ride through Valley Center, through the Rincon Reservation, probably skipping the always-fun ride up to Mount Palomar on the S6 twisties and down the S7 sweepers, and past Lake Henshaw. We then turn left towards Warner Springs, which would be the way heading to the road over the mountains to Palm Springs, but before that we take a right turn towards Ranchita and head out across the Pinyon Ridge mesa. It always feels like you are heading into the unknown when you get into that area. You have gone through the California ranch country with its fields of golden grass dotted with dark green Mesquite and Live Oak and passed into the never-never land of barren mesa before heading down into the desert proper. The ride down the southern slope of San Ysidro Mountain is a wonderful road with that distant desert overlook that brings a rush of anticipation around every cliffhanging turn. It is tempting to stop at each outcropping to gawk at the scenery below, but it is more tempting to stay the course and crank the bikes down the hill one turn after another, seeping your way down into the warming desert air. When you get to the bottom, you are right at the Anza Borrego Desert Park entrance to the left with the town of Borrego Springs laid out to your right.
We usually stop for lunch near the central roundabout as there is a building there that houses both a nice eatery that keeps changing hands, but keeps serving better food than can be had across the street at Carlee’s Diner (which is dark, dank and looks too “local” to be much good). The building with the restaurant of choice is owned by the Borrego Art Institute, which always has lots of local native and non-native artists on display. One often wonders what compels someone to take up residence in a place like Borrego Springs, rather than being in the more populous, but similarly desertscaped Palm Springs area. It’s the same as wondering why someone chooses to live in Mesquite rather than Las Vegas…there is no easy answer to the question other than cost and crowds, I suppose. I always harken back to what Lawrence of Arabia said about why he liked the desert so much. He said it was because it was “clean”. I too always feel that the desert feels very clean, and I sort of sense the appeal until I consider what it must have been like in the days before air conditioning when the only way to stay cool was with a water-based “swamp cooler” on the roof. That would definitely not have felt anywhere near as “clean” to live with as I would like.
Today, our primary purpose is the ride (which as I state quite clearly in my book about my motorcycle journeys is “All”), but we also have a secondary mission, which is to be an advance party for a bunch of people on our hilltop who want to go out and see the superbloom if and when it arrives. This is actually quite a renowned event in these parts and draws a big crowd when it is particularly vibrant, but it only lasts a few days or a week when it does, so there is a need to stay vigilant. I’m not sure one can rely on the various wildflower websites or even reports form locals, since they all have a decided preference that the area to not get overrun by amateur gawkers (like us). Therefore, I consider this an important tactical mission to see for ourselves the state of the bloom as we get to mid-January, which is, admittedly, still early for the bloom, but not so early that there isn’t some indication of what is to come. I plan to ask around in Borrego Springs at the restaurant and the Art Insitute to see what the locals are saying. I figure both of those sources are in favor of added visitor traffic, so they will tend to be more forthcoming about the bloom and its timing.
We will then also try to go to the areas that are considered the most prolific wildflower zones. The best locations in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park to see wildflowers during a superbloom are the following:
– Henderson Canyon Road – Often considered the most reliable spot. This dirt road accessible by regular vehicles can have spectacular displays of desert sunflowers, sand verbena, and other species carpeting the bajadas (gentle slopes).
– Borrego Palm Canyon Trail – The park’s most popular hiking trail. The first mile or two can have excellent blooms, and you get the bonus of seeing California’s native fan palms at the canyon oasis.
– Coyote Canyon – Requires 4WD (which means we are unlikely to do it today) but offers some of the most diverse wildflower displays. The area around the old Collins Valley has spectacular blooms in good years.
– Fonts Point – Famous for its badlands views, but the drive in can have great roadside flowers, particularly brittlebush on the slopes.
– S-22 (Borrego-Salton Seaway) – The highway between Borrego Springs and the Salton Sea often has excellent roadside displays, especially around Pegleg Smith Monument and the Ocotillo Wells area, but this is too far out of our way for today’s recon mission.
– Erosion Road – A loop drive that can showcase variety – everything from sand verbena to desert lilies depending on elevation and exposure.
– DiGiorgio Road area – Near the park visitor center, often has accessible displays without requiring extensive hiking (…and we can do a quick pass on our way out of town back up the mesa).
Before going today, I will also check the website. The Anza-Borrego Desert Natural History Association and park websites maintain bloom reports during the season, which is essential since wildflowers can vary dramatically by location, elevation, and microclimate even within the same year. Jack London had his call of the wild, and today I have the call of the desert.