Memoir

Malteasers

Today we arrived in Malta. The first thing we did after lunch was go the The Malta Experience to learn about the history of these interesting islands. Malta has a remarkably rich history spanning over 7,000 years, shaped by its strategic position in the central Mediterranean. In the prehistoric period (5900-700 ), the earliest inhabitants arrived around 5900 BC, likely from Sicily. These early Maltese people created some of the world’s oldest free-standing stone structures, including the megalithic temples of Ħaġar Qim, Mnajdra, and Tarxien (3600-2500 BC) – predating Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. The mysterious Hypogeum of Ħal-Saflieni, an underground burial complex, demonstrates their sophisticated engineering skills. During the ancient period, the Phoenicians arrived around 700 BC, followed by the Carthaginians, and then the Romans in 218 BC. Under Roman rule, Malta (called Melita) became an important naval base. According to Christian tradition, the Apostle Paul was shipwrecked on Malta in 60 AD, introducing Christianity very early to the islands.

During the medieval period and after the fall of Rome, Malta was controlled by the Byzantines (the Eastern Roman Empire), then conquered by the Arabs in 870 AD. The Arabs introduced new agricultural techniques, irrigation systems, and left a lasting impact on the Maltese language. In 1091, the Norman Count Roger I , as part of the early Crusades, conquered Malta, bringing it back under Christian rule. That’s when the Knights of St. John (1530-1798) began the most famous period of the island’s history when Holy Roman Emperor Charles V granted Malta to the Knights Hospitaller (Knights of St. John) in 1530. The Knights transformed Malta into a fortress island and naval power. The Great Siege of 1565 saw the Knights and Maltese defenders heroically resist a massive Ottoman invasion, a victory that helped preserve Christian Europe. The Knights built the magnificent capital city Valletta, named after Grand Master Jean Parisot de Valette. Without this barrier to Ottoman westward expansion, Europe might be a very different place today.

This is when the French and British periods began with Napoleon conquering Malta in 1798. His rule was brief and unpopular and the Maltese rebelled with British assistance, so Malta became a British protectorate in 1800, formally a colony in 1814. Under British rule, Malta became the “Nurse of the Mediterranean,” serving as a crucial naval base through WWI and right up to and including during World War II and ultimately, Independence. During WWII, Malta endured one of the most intensive bombing campaigns in history during the 1940-1943 siege. The island’s courage earned it the George Cross, collectively awarded to the entire population. Malta gained independence in 1964 as its reward and became a republic in 1974. The last British forces left in 1979.

Modern Malta joined the European Union in 2004 and adopted the euro in 2008. Today, it’s a prosperous nation known for tourism, financial services, and its unique cultural heritage that blends European, North African, and Middle Eastern influences. The Maltese language, descended from Arabic but written in Latin script, remains one of the official languages alongside English. This small archipelago’s history reflects its position as a crossroads of civilizations, where each ruling power left lasting cultural, architectural, and linguistic legacies that make modern Malta truly unique.

Malta’s uniqueness stems from its extraordinary blend of cultural influences, geological features, and historical circumstances that you won’t find replicated anywhere else in the world. The Maltese Language

makes Malta the only non-Arabic country with an official language derived from Arabic but written in Latin script. Maltese evolved from medieval Sicilian Arabic, then absorbed vocabulary from Italian, English, French, and other languages. You can hear this linguistic fusion in everyday conversation – a single sentence might contain Arabic roots, Italian words, and English expressions. Malta is also a prehistoric architectural marvel. It houses the world’s oldest free-standing stone structures. The megalithic temples like Ġgantija are older than Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids, representing humanity’s earliest monumental architecture. The underground Hypogeum is the only known prehistoric underground temple in the world.

Concentrated diversity, as questionably controversial as that may sound today, is a unique strength. At just 316 square kilometers, Malta packs incredible diversity into a tiny space. You can drive across the entire island in 30 minutes, yet encounter Neolithic temples, medieval cities, Baroque churches, British colonial architecture, and modern developments. It’s one of the most densely populated countries globally, yet maintains distinct regional characteristics.

Malta is the only entire country to receive the George Cross, Britain’s highest civilian award for bravery. This was awarded collectively to all Maltese people for their heroism during WWII’s brutal siege, making Malta literally a nation of heroes. Malta sits at the exact center of the Mediterranean, historically controlling trade routes between Europe, Africa, and Asia. This position made it coveted by every major Mediterranean power, creating its unique cultural layering. The entire landscape reflects centuries of fortification. Valletta is one of Europe’s most completely preserved fortress cities, despite its bombing in WWII, while the Three Cities showcase medieval and baroque military architecture. The countryside is dotted with watchtowers, coastal batteries, and defensive walls.

Malta’s limestone landscape creates distinctive golden-hued buildings and dramatic coastal formations. The islands host endemic species found nowhere else, and the surrounding waters contain some of the Mediterranean’s clearest seas with exceptional visibility for diving. Maltese culture seamlessly blends Mediterranean, Arabic, and British influences. You’ll find British-style pubs serving pasta, Arabic-influenced pastries sold alongside English tea, and festa celebrations combining Italian Catholic traditions with uniquely Maltese customs. Malta’s village festa system creates one of the world’s most vibrant religious celebration cultures. Nearly every weekend from May to September features elaborate festivals with fireworks, brass bands, and religious processions that have remained unchanged for centuries. This combination of ancient mysteries, strategic importance, cultural fusion, wartime heroism, and compressed diversity creates a national identity unlike anywhere else – a place where you can touch 7,000-year-old stones in the morning and swim in crystal-clear waters by afternoon, all while surrounded by the architectural legacy of knights, empires, and civilizations.

Our gang of six is gathering for dinner to plot out our next five days of exploring this fascinating place.

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